One word. Strobes. Or in the case of this image, 2 Alienbee 800s and 1 Canon 580exII on camera.
I shoot with a Canon 1dmkIII and it has a maximum shutter synch speed of 1/300. This is the fastest shutter speed I can use with a flash. Faster shutter speeds will result in a progressively larger and larger black band on the edge of the image. This is the portion of the image that did not get exposed by the flash. It's a bit complicated and not necessary in this discussion.
So, how can I freeze action at 1/300 if this is the maximum shutter speed I can use. Well, you have to think of it like this. The shutter speed won't be your true shutter speed, but rather, your flash duration becomes the shutter speed.
Here's how I do it. I set up my camera to the f-stop I want to use. Say I am using my 70-200 2.8 IS lens. Sure, I could shoot at 2.8, but then it leaves me a very small depth of field of focus and thus, little room for focusing errors. If I can stop my f-stop down to f 4 or so, I can get more of the player in focus and a bit more leeway in the event my focus is not exact. So, now I have my shutter speed of 1/300 and my f stop of 4, that leaves only ISO to set.
In this example, I will start with ISO 640. So, what I do is take a picture of the players warming up and see what I get with ISO 640, 1/300 and f 4. If I can see players or the court, I dial down the ISO until all I can see is a very, very faint image or completely black image. Oh, I should say that this is all done with the flash turned off, or your trigger turned off.
Once I get a black or nearly black frame, I'll turn my flash (or trigger on) and fire a few images. My goal here is to get a properly exposed image by adjusting the power of the flash. I can do this by turning the flash power up or by going direct instead of bouncing flash.
Since we know that without the flash, I am getting a completely underexposed image, we can be assured that the only light hitting the sensor is from the flash. The neat thing about this is that the flash only fires for a very brief moment. For example, with my AlienBee 800 Strobe, it has a flash duration of about 1/1100 of a second at full power. This is plenty fast enough to stop most action. So, by using my AB800 at full power, the light source flashing on and off at 1/1100 of a second becomes the shutter speed because during the rest of the time the shutter is open, no light is effectively hitting it.
I shoot with a Canon 1dmkIII and it has a maximum shutter synch speed of 1/300. This is the fastest shutter speed I can use with a flash. Faster shutter speeds will result in a progressively larger and larger black band on the edge of the image. This is the portion of the image that did not get exposed by the flash. It's a bit complicated and not necessary in this discussion.
So, how can I freeze action at 1/300 if this is the maximum shutter speed I can use. Well, you have to think of it like this. The shutter speed won't be your true shutter speed, but rather, your flash duration becomes the shutter speed.
Here's how I do it. I set up my camera to the f-stop I want to use. Say I am using my 70-200 2.8 IS lens. Sure, I could shoot at 2.8, but then it leaves me a very small depth of field of focus and thus, little room for focusing errors. If I can stop my f-stop down to f 4 or so, I can get more of the player in focus and a bit more leeway in the event my focus is not exact. So, now I have my shutter speed of 1/300 and my f stop of 4, that leaves only ISO to set.
In this example, I will start with ISO 640. So, what I do is take a picture of the players warming up and see what I get with ISO 640, 1/300 and f 4. If I can see players or the court, I dial down the ISO until all I can see is a very, very faint image or completely black image. Oh, I should say that this is all done with the flash turned off, or your trigger turned off.
Once I get a black or nearly black frame, I'll turn my flash (or trigger on) and fire a few images. My goal here is to get a properly exposed image by adjusting the power of the flash. I can do this by turning the flash power up or by going direct instead of bouncing flash.
Since we know that without the flash, I am getting a completely underexposed image, we can be assured that the only light hitting the sensor is from the flash. The neat thing about this is that the flash only fires for a very brief moment. For example, with my AlienBee 800 Strobe, it has a flash duration of about 1/1100 of a second at full power. This is plenty fast enough to stop most action. So, by using my AB800 at full power, the light source flashing on and off at 1/1100 of a second becomes the shutter speed because during the rest of the time the shutter is open, no light is effectively hitting it.
In the next article, I will go into some more detail on my flash/strobe setup.
2 comments:
Im lost. But thank you for the article. One day it will Click
Wish I had started here, rather than your SmugSmug!
I emailed you re the lighting setup, got that from here thanks. The sync speed was a mystery for me, I did not know the 1D went to 1/300th! Lucky you.
The other 'tactic' you use is the flash on camera, thanks for your blog...you are doing well by sharing.
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